Don’t you forget about those.. costumes

Creo que todos conocen las películas del director/guionista John Hughes, quien inmortalizó a la juventud de los 80s como nadie. No recuerdo cual fue la primera que ví. Probablemente Pretty in Pink, seguro seguida por Ferris Bueller’s Day Off y mi favorita, The Breakfast Club.

Todas retratan escenas y dialogos perfectos con los que uno puede identificarse: el hecho de no encajar en la secundaria, la presión social, las ganas de romper con el molde, y la amistad más pura. Pero este no es un blog de reflexiones, así que les dejo el análisis de eso a ustedes.

Yo vengo acá a hablar de lo más importante de estas películas: la selección de vestuario impecable, timeless e inspiradora. Una de las primeras ideas que tuve para producción de modas (o el intento de…) fue un photoshoot inspirado en Pretty in Pink. Voy a destacar entonces, algunos personajes cuyo estilo me impacto y que siguen hoy en día teniendo una fuerte impronta.

Empecemos por el estilo del espléndido Duckie Dale. Justo el otro día vi que una marca super hype de zapatillas sacó unas con el entretejido de cuero que tienen los zapatos de Duckie, increíbles (Filling Pieces – colección Metamorphosis)

Duckie no encajaba con el molde, tal como Andie, pero ambos buscaban piezas únicas vintage que los definían.

Si bien el estilo romántico de Andie no me convence para nada (y por eso la vamos a obviar), el estilo mezcla rockabilly-80s de Duckie es todo.

Despues en la otra esquina, tal como dirían en el boxeo, encontramos a los chicos ricos de la preparatoria (AMO DECIR ESA PALABRA) tal como Steff, el villano. No entiendo mucho el concepto de que todos los días se vistan como si los hubieran bajado del yate, pero funciona. Obviamente nadie va a ponerse un traje claro en estos días, salvo que seas un narco, pero el uso de los colores pasteles me hace querer salir corriendo al verano vestida así.

Pasemos a otro de los films, el eterno The Breakfast Club. Destaco acá el estilo del personaje de Emilio Estevez, que hacía del atleta castigado, y de Molly Ringwald, quien tenía el papel de Claire, la princesa adinerada. Creo que Jonny Johannson, el director creativo de Acne Studios, tiene una foto de Andy y Claire pegada en la pared de todos los diseñadores de la marca, y se basan en ellos para armar sus básicos, y no tan básicos impecables. Si bien la vestimenta de Andy es casi elemental, es un bastión del Normcore actual. Una mención especial a su flequillo, necesitamos esos jopos de nuevo.

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Por la parte de Claire, la blusa no tiene desperdicios. El color, el corte, es toda perfecta. Y combinada con la falda marrón midi, y botas de caña alta, el producto final es un vestuario pulido, refinado, que parece básico pero no lo es. Diseño minimalista y cuidado, pero con un twist.

Por último, le quiero dar una mención especial a la chaqueta biker de cuero blanca con flecos de Sloane Peterson en Ferris Bueller’s Day Off. Es un clásico fuera de lo común que parece una compra innnecesaria, pero no lo es. La imagino, por ejemplo, sobre los hombros de la it girl Pernille Teisbaek, que con sus looks eclécticos pero con mucha clase, la llevaría perfecta. También podría agregarse a un look de pies a cabeza Calvin Klein, convirtiendo a este outfit en un homenaje a los 90s sin ser una replica.

.. Además ven el detalle del cinturón? Sloane lo hizo primero!

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English:

I believe everyone is familiarized with the movies by director/screenwriter John Hughes, who immortalized the 80s youth better than anyone. I can’t really recall which was the first of his films that I watched, probably Pretty in Pink, but I was instantly drawn into them. Ferris Bueller’s Day Off made me believe that crazy was good, while The Breakfast Club, my favorite one, reassured the fact.

The movies I mentioned and a couple more by John Hughes, portrait sceneries, situations and dialogues that one can perfectly identify with: that feeling of inadequacy within your school, social pressure, the internal desire to break free from the mold and the purity of friendships. But this is not about life reflections, that I will leave to you.

I come here to talk about the impeccable costume selection of the movies, inspiring and timeless pieces that shape our everyday outfit selection, and designer collections all over the world. One of the first ideas I had for a photoshoot, was to base it on Pretty in Pink (I know, this has been done before, but I am not a fashion producer, so cut me some slack!). Some of the photos are here. There were two outfit changes. One was inspired on Duckie, whose style I will detail below, and one on Andie, the protagonist.

We will then start with the style of the very splendid Duckie Dale. Last week I saw these sneaker/shoes from the last collection by Filling Pieces, Metamorphosis, and I instantly associated them with Duckie’s white shoes, for instance.

Duckie didn’t fit in the standards of the school, like Andie, but they both didn’t give a damn and searched for unique vintage pieces that defined them to express themselves by their looks. Personally, Andie’s romantic style doesn’t convince me at all, but Duckie’s rockabilly-80s style takes the cake.

On the other corner, like boxing commentators would say, we find the rich kids from the school, as Steff, the villain, my all-time crush up to this date. I don’t really get as well the concept of going to school every day looking as if your chofer has dropped you there with on a yacht, but it sure does work. Obviously, nobody would wear a light suit on a daily basis today, unless you are a Narco, but the pastels are a great choice .

Let’s now take a look at another movie, the eternal The Breakfast Club. With a line from David Bowie’s Changes song “…and these children that you spit on you know that this movie will definitely leave a mark. But again, it’s styling that we are discussing here: the absolute highlights from the flick are Andrew, Emilio Esteves’s character, and Claire the princess, played by the redhead heartthrob, Molly Ringwald. I have the theory that Jonny Johansson, the Creative Director of Acne Studios has a photo of Andrew and Claire sticked to a wall of his atelier and inspires the basic items of the collections on them. Even though Andrew’s outfit, a blue and white varsity jacket with patches on it, some-kind-of-klein blue hoodie, a Nike tank, blue straight legged jeans and white Nike sneakers, almost fall into the generic jock outfit category, we all know that this is the basis of the current Normcore look.

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As for Claire, her blouse is perfect. The color, the cut, its pure perfection. And combined with that midi brown skirt, the high boots and those diamond studs, the final product is a refined, polished but casual and well put together look that may have a basic allure, but it is not at all. Minimalist but with a twist.

Finally, I would like to give Sloane Peterson, the girl in Ferris Bueller’s day off a shoutout thanks to her fringed white leather jacket. It is a non-classic classic that looks like an unnecessary purchase, if you were to be deciding on such piece, but its not. I picture it, for instance over the shoulders of the it girl Pernille Teisbaek, who can really make it work combined with her eclectic but clean looks. It can also be easily thrown over a head-to-toe Calvin Klein look, turning this outfit in an homage to the 90s without being a replica.

… look at that belt detail! Sloane did it first!

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noshamejane

No shame in my game.

2 thoughts on “Don’t you forget about those.. costumes

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